DIY Turf Installation

Step 1: Pre-installation
1. Examine underground for hazards Electric and water lines can be located under the surface of your preferred installation site. Sprinklers should be covered at pipe level or taken off if you don't require any more. Install the drainage pipes you need for an easy water drain. The location of the sprinklers is not in use to avoid uneven surfaces. Secure your electrical wires by removing them from the edge by 6 to 8 inches. Ensure they are away from the ground so that they don't get damaged when you fix the turf's edges. Place them on the uppermost part of the subgrade (crushed rock) and secure them with U-nails later.

Step 2. Prepare the area Ground preparation before laying the base material of artificial turf on dirt surfaces or soils
1. Eliminate the weeds The first thing to do before putting in your grass is to kill the grass and weeds. The area should be sprayed with a non-toxic weedkiller you can trust. Make sure to do this at least two weeks before your date for installation. The weed killers require plenty of time to get to work. Completely cover your lawn with weed killers and ensure no signs of life on your lawn. 2. Get rid of your soil's top layer. soil To allow enough space for your new foundation, you must dig up the top 3 to 4 inches. Then, walk across the area or employ a hand tamper to press down on the soil. 3. Plan your drainage If you're installing synthetic turf on top of well-draining soil, you'll face very little or no issues. The reason is that synthetic grass drains very well. If you are on top of poor draining soil, put in an effective drainage system. If the area you live in experiences light, rainfall drainage gaps of 6-inches around its perimeter should suffice. 4. Use a bender board Draw the perimeter of your lawn so that you have a clear line to divide your turf from other lawn components. Set it up as a fence to ensure that your lawn doesn't creep out of the space it was given. 5. Optional: Install a gopher wire The gopher wire is rolled out onto the installation space gradually. Then, secure the pieces using u-shaped staples every couple of feet to ensure they won't shift over time. After unrolling it completely using a wire cutter, it is time to cut it to the proper size. 6. Optional: Set up a weed-control barrier Create a geotextile layer on the bottom of the area dug up. Before the artificial grass is laid down.

Step 3: layout your base
1. Incorporate your sub-base material Utilizing a wheelbarrow or a shovel, spread the base material. In general, in areas with mild climates, you can utilize the type 1 stone crushed rock, gravel decomposed granite, or other stones or rocks smaller than 3/8 inches for the base. About 3-4 inches of the base material is required to aid drainage and prevent slumping. The ideal artificial grass sub-base absorbs the surface water in a short time. 2. Add sharp sand Utilize a shovel or sand spreader for laying fine sand that is 10mm thick on the surface of the sub-base for it to be solid. 3. The entire area is flooded. Make use of your hose to sprinkle the area with water. Be careful not to drown your sub-base since your base may be cleaned away. 4. Make sure you compact your stones Utilize a plate compactor or a plate tamper to compact the surface using. In areas that have obstructions, such as trees, you can use hand tampers. You can also lay two-by-four planks of wood on the stones, then hammer down. The ideal situation is for the base to be reduced to 90 percent of its initial depth. It should be akin to concrete but be able to drain. Move back and forth using the compactor or the tamper in overlapping directions for the best compact results. If you're able to afford it, you could lease or purchase an electric vibratory compactor. It is the most efficient and time-saving choice. Hand tamps may also be purchased at a reasonable cost. 5. The entire area should be leveled Check your area for low and high spots; fill in or smooth if the surface is uneven. You can add more base material if you need it. Get rid of high spots using the rake. Add base material to areas with low levels.

Step 4: Connect your synthetic grass.
1. Design the layout Please make a note of the measurements of the area, and then compare it with your grass. You should ensure that all blades are in the same direction so they look natural. Note your areas for easy references. Use chalk or spray paint and mark the area, so you don't lose track of the area for a specific cut. 2. Spread your turf on the outside On a level area (preferably that it is not one on which you are installing it so that you don't walk over it), make sure you are reviewing your notes as well as your grass. After you've rolled your grass to the desired size, you can cut it the length of four (4) inches off the edges toward the center. 3. Then, roll the turf back into Turn your turf over and stop when the cut marks are on near the end of your roll. Cut the marks along your line to create your custom cut. Bring the cut section to the location of your installation. 4. Lay turf on the installation surface Spread your synthetic grass in the area of installation. Take the edges and gently shake them so that air can circulate underneath them and over the stones that have been compacted. Be careful not to drag the grass on the base, or you could cause damage to the surface. 5. Optional Alternative: Use a stretcher for carpets and a carpet kicker A carpet stretcher is a tool that can stretch the turf strips just before you secure or join the strips. The stretching of turf with this device reduces wrinkles, decreases expansion caused through heat, and helps keep the surface more secure on the floor. 6. Join your turf pieces Lay your second mat in a similar way to the first mat. In small portions each, but the sides together as if you were sewing the two fabrics. It should appear like a tent, which is joined at the center. The gap should be kept to 1/8 inch so that they will not be noticeable. Cut off any excess material from the new surface when it is related to the fixed side. 7. Place your seam tape on the floor. Get two persons' help for seaming turf patches. Cut seam tape to be as long as the edges of your turf. Put it under the place between the sides. Make sure they stay in place by using nails of 6 inches. Each corner will have one nail. The sides of your turf, and have your team members hold them. Put some glue in and evenly throughout all of the tapes. 8. Stitch Beginning at the far edge, but seams are joined gradually, and your assistants release the required areas. Be sure that the turf isn't overlapping before you lay it down and that the fibers are not in contact with the glue until the very end. 9. Apply the pressure An extra step over the edges of the seams to ensure that it adheres with the tape. It is also possible to add some heavy objects on top of the seam. 10. Spike to ensure that the turf remains in place Hammer nails through the earth at intervals of a couple of inches. Be sure not to keep grass fibers in the vicinity of the head of the nail. Fix the turfs to the edges. Utilize landscaping anchors pins or four to 6-inch galvanized stakes to hold the turf to the ground. Set them along the perimeter at approximately 6- 8-inch intervals. Also, along the edges. While you must smash the boards flat, you must be extra cautious and avoid excessive hammering as it could create depressions on your lawn. Artificial Grass Installation

Post-process Steps:
1. Cut off any grass that is not needed. Cut the artificial turf that is left with a minimum of two to three rows of stitching. It is the edges that are the most vulnerable part of the turf. To prevent the edges of artificial grass from bending to either side, you must eliminate the issue early. Cut off the turf! You could use a utility knife or carpet cutting tool to slice off the turf's underside.

2. Optional: to clear areas If you've got objects and obstacles in your yard, Cut your artificial grass around them. To make it easier to spot, you can lean it against the obstruction and fold it inwards. Find out where you should begin the relief cut by marking the base upwards. Continue to work until the base of the obstruction is completely covered with turf. If there are posts or trees, Make huge relief cuts that allow your synthetic turf to move across. If you are installing turf artificially around trees or others, the aim is to ensure that relief cuts meet the rear of the tree or obstruction. If cutting in a garden, fold the edges piece-by-piece and cut toward the center from the edges. When cutting the patios, sidewalks, and other surfaces that are almost at level, you need to pull back the cut area while cutting to let you see what you're cutting. Cuts for relief should be close enough to let the turf lay flat, and the flaps still go through the objects. When cutting long distances, make short cuts at a given time and check the edges to ensure there aren't apparent gaps. Make sure to size the turf just a tiny to ensure you don't take off more than you need to. After all relief cuts have been cut, Cut off the pieces piece-by-piece.

3. Final grooming Then, brush the fake grass upwards, allowing infill in. (If the broom is powered, there's no need to first brush before pouring into the fill.) Be sure that the grass is dry before applying the infill. With the shovel lay the sand on the ground in a back-dragging movement. Make a back step as you lower the sand. Spread the first layer equally (about 1.25 pounds for each square foot in the initial lay) all over before beginning the second layer to finish your fill. It is also possible to make use of a sand spreader in this process. Brush or broom the grass until the sand has completely submerged beneath the grass. Look for lows and highs. Brush out the highs and add filler to the lows. The lawn should be brushed one more time, and then take away the sand that has been left. You can also make use of the leaf blower. Install the infill by watering and mowing the grass. The next day, check whether you are happy with the outcome. If it's not bouncy enough for you and the blades of grass are exposed, you can add an infill layer and rake. Optional You can use an additional leaf blower to get rid of any debris. Do any additional adjustments. Give your lawn a new look by planting some flowers or plants in pots and placing them over the artificial grass. It is also possible to have the option of a picnic table right outside your home. There are many options!

Inexpensively Installation of Turf (Artificial Grass)
Are you interested in synthetic grass to add some appeal to your property? However, you're not sure if you're comfortable with the upfront price for installation? Today, we'll demonstrate ways to set up artificial turf cheaply and make adjustments throughout the process to bring the cost costs down. Don't be fooled, however. For this to be successful, you'll need to be ready to do your part and invest a considerable amount of energy and time and think about solutions in the process. Additionally, although each of the methods discussed below will lower the cost of your services, they can also increase the amount of work you'll need to perform yourself. You'll need hand tools like a shovel and carrying 50 pounds at a time regardless of whether you're able to get assistance. Does this sound like the kind of thing you're looking forward to? Let's get started! Five elements of nearly every installation could be changed to decrease the expense of installing artificial turf without risking its longevity and performance. These are: Artificial Grass Remnants Subbase Site Layout Seaming Method Installation Tools

1. High-Quality, Low-Cost Artificial Grass Remnants
Based on the area of your project, remnants of artificial grass could be a fantastic way to save money! Remnants are pieces of turf that are not used in previous projects which are offered at reduced prices. They are different in size, but they are not usually larger than 15'x15'. The availability of remnants varies depending on the location, and they have to be collected from the store. They cannot be delivered. However, you can browse the remnants available at the store before you visit! Select the closest location to you from the drop-down menu and browse for what's available, updated every week. Keep in mind artificial grasses are made in dye quantities. That means two independently made rolls of the same may have slight color differences. If you have remnants of the same dye lot matter to you, that's great! If it does, you can inquire with your Purchase Green rep to determine whether the dye lots are similar or different before purchasing. Many DIYers have placed remnants from various dye lots. Sometimes, the pieces are placed in separate areas or include plants or other elements of the landscape, which can distract the viewers away from the (somewhat) visible differences in the color.

2. The Secret to Low-Cost Subbase Subbase.
What exactly is it? Who is it for? In the case of making artificial turf, then you do you, dear reader. Subbase covers the area where your original grass once you've dug just a couple of inches before you plant the grass. Its main purpose is to stop any natural contraction and expansion of the lawn's native soil from impacting the turf and making wrinkles less likely to form. In the majority of professional installations, there are three aspects: crushed miscellaneous base - CMB, road base class II or Decomposed granite. Decomposed granite is the top of the trio because of its superior drainage capabilities and capacity to provide a uniformly flat surface. Certain kinds of installations like greens for putting require a subbase of decomposed granite to function and last. The issue of decomposed granite is that it's costly. Do you have a solution? In most cases, you can achieve excellent performance and long-lasting artificial grass by using the smallest amount of decomposed granite. In reality, just the top few inches of subbase must be broken down into granite to have a good drainage system and overall efficiency. This means that you can fill all of the excavated space with low-cost CMB or class II and then apply a few inches of crushed granite on top. This can reduce the price significantly and give satisfactory results. However, there are some projects that we do not suggest skimping out on crushed granite slabs. If you experience a lot of rain or have drainage problems in your yard, this plan isn't going to be a success. Make sure you discuss the specifics of your project with our turf experts to get more advice.

3. Save Money by Re-evaluating Your Layout and Reducing Material
Waste It's almost impossible to guarantee that all the turf you buy will be used during your installation unless the area you're installing is exactly the dimension and shape of a lawn. You'll likely need to cut or stitch several pieces, and some will be taken away. The trick is to determine how you can make the most from 13 15' wide pieces of turf. One approach is not to follow the conventional grain-orientation rule. The grain direction of artificial grass is among the primary causes for the loss of grass. The grain direction refers to the direction in which grass blades are primarily pointing towards the upper part of the roll down. Crews will usually install artificial grass pieces so that their grain is facing the 'main vantage point,' creating the most aesthetically-pleasing lawn. The most important viewpoint is the point from which the lawn is often observed. For backyard landscaping, the primary viewpoint is typically the home. For entrance yards, the principal viewpoint is usually the street. However, installation sites that are irregularly shaped will often lead to an excess of material waste when only able to lay turf pieces in one specific direction. If aesthetics aren't particularly significant to you, then it's likely that there's a high chance that you'll save money by laying the grass pieces you've bought the best way to can be installed regardless of the direction in which they grain.

4. The Seaming Method Hack
As stated above, you will likely need to cut and stitch together several pieces of turf each time installing artificial grass. In most cases, it is done using seaming tape, seaming glue, and nails. This is considered the most reliable and secure; however, it's also the most expensive. Although the expense of glue and seaming tape may be minimal for small installations, it could be a significant expense for larger installations. The most affordable alternative? Use nails - many of them. This excellent seaming method can be used for some installations; however, it's not as secure. Nails tend to become loose when there is enough foot traffic, which is why we suggest this method if your lawn doesn't get lots of. If you have a huge area of installation that doesn't get any foot traffic, A box or two of cheap nails and 5-inch in length could be enough.

5 (Bonus!). Cost-cutting Tools
​When it comes to the best equipment for installing artificial turf, the options are limitless. Professional installers have an array of gadgets and tools at their disposal to help them complete their work faster. These include tools such as plates compactor, sod cutter motorized brooms, turf mower, puller, turf gripper kicker, and the list goes on. If you were to complete it right, hiring all of the tools listed above is possible to streamline the installation process and make your neighbors jealous. We're assuming you're not doing this according to the rules. However, we're guessing you're not doing it by the book. We're not sure, but our advice is to get rid of the expensive equipment and go back to basics using hand tools. As it turns out, almost everything these power tools can be accomplished using hand tools. Change the sod cutter for a pick-ax and the plate compactor to become a hand compactor, the power broom to become the push broom, and the turf cutter to become the carpet knife. Prepare to apply some elbow grease and break a sweat!

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